When Artemisia Love first walked the ancient cobblestones of Rome, she didn’t just see tourist traps. She saw places that felt like home-quiet corners where history breathed, not shouted. Over the years, she’s returned again and again, not for the cameras, but for the calm. Here are the five spots she swears by, the ones she visits when she needs to reset, recharge, or just sit with a cup of espresso and watch the world move slowly.
Castel Sant’Angelo at Sunset
Most people rush through Castel Sant’Angelo as a museum stop on their way to the Vatican. Artemisia doesn’t. She waits until the golden hour, when the Tiber reflects the pinkish glow off the marble statues lining the bridge. She climbs to the top terrace, where the wind carries the scent of jasmine from nearby gardens. There’s a bench there, slightly worn from years of visitors, that faces east. She sits there every time, watching the light fade over St. Peter’s Dome. She says it’s the only place in Rome where time stops. No crowds. No vendors. Just the echo of Roman soldiers who once stood guard, and the quiet hum of the city below.
Il Giardino degli Aranci
The Orange Garden isn’t on most tourist maps. It’s tucked behind the Aventine Hill, past a narrow alley lined with ivy-covered walls. Artemisia discovered it during a rainy afternoon when she got lost chasing a stray cat. The garden sits on the edge of a cliff, overlooking the dome of St. Peter’s with the whole city spread out like a painted backdrop. She brings a book, sometimes a slice of tiramisu from the bakery down the street. The orange trees bloom in spring, filling the air with a citrus perfume so strong it lingers on your clothes. She says it smells like memory-like childhood, like first love, like peace.
Trastevere’s Backstreets at Dawn
Trastevere is packed by noon. But Artemisia goes before the sun fully rises. She walks from Piazza Trilussa down Via della Scala, past the shuttered wine bars and the old woman who sweeps her doorstep every morning. The light hits the faded murals on the walls just right-pink, ochre, deep green. She stops at a tiny caffè called La Taverna dei Santi, where the barista knows her order: espresso, no sugar, one lemon slice. The place doesn’t have Wi-Fi. No menus. Just a chalkboard with today’s specials. She sits at the counter, listens to the clink of cups, and watches the neighborhood wake up. She calls it her reset ritual.
The Aventine Keyhole
It’s not a monument. It’s not even a ticketed attraction. Just a small keyhole in the door of the Priory of the Knights of Malta, hidden behind a quiet courtyard on the Aventine. Artemisia has stood there more times than she can count. When you peer through, the perfectly framed view of St. Peter’s Dome appears, centered between two symmetrical hedges. No one explains it. No signs. No crowds. Just silence and this one perfect frame. She says it’s the only time she’s ever felt like Rome was showing her a secret. She doesn’t take photos. She just remembers.
Piazza Navona’s Hidden Fountains at Midnight
Piazza Navona is packed during the day-street artists, ice cream vendors, selfie sticks everywhere. But Artemisia waits until after midnight. The lights dim. The musicians pack up. The last tourists stumble away. Then, she walks to the center, where Bernini’s Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi still sings with water. The marble figures, carved in 1651, look different under moonlight. Less grand. More human. She sits on the edge of the basin, lets her feet dangle, and listens to the trickle. She says the water sounds like a lullaby. That’s when she writes her best poems.
These aren’t the spots you’ll find in travel guides. They’re not Instagrammable. They don’t have hashtags. But they’re the ones Artemisia returns to-not because they’re beautiful, but because they’re real. Rome doesn’t need to impress her. It just needs to be there.
Why does Artemisia Love avoid crowded Roman landmarks?
Artemisia avoids crowded landmarks because she seeks moments of quiet connection with Rome’s history, not spectacle. She finds that places like the Colosseum or Trevi Fountain, while iconic, are often overwhelming and impersonal. Instead, she gravitates toward spots where she can be alone with the city’s rhythm-listening to water, watching light change, or sitting silently as locals go about their day. For her, Rome’s soul isn’t in the monuments, but in the spaces between them.
Are these spots safe to visit alone at night?
Yes, the spots Artemisia visits at night-like Piazza Navona after midnight and the Aventine keyhole-are in well-lit, residential areas with consistent foot traffic even late. Trastevere’s backstreets are particularly safe, as locals live and work there around the clock. Castel Sant’Angelo and Il Giardino degli Aranci are closed after dark, but the surrounding areas remain secure. As with any city, common sense applies: stay aware, avoid isolated alleys, and keep valuables out of sight. She always carries a small flashlight and a local SIM card for emergencies.
Can tourists visit these places without knowing Italian?
Absolutely. While a few words of Italian go a long way-especially "grazie" and "buongiorno"-these spots don’t require language skills to enjoy. The Orange Garden, the keyhole, and the fountains are all open to the public with no entry fees or tickets. Even La Taverna dei Santi doesn’t have an English menu, but the staff are used to international visitors and point to what’s fresh. Most locals appreciate the effort, even if you just smile and say "grazie." The beauty of these places is that they speak without words.
What’s the best time of year to visit these spots?
Late spring (April-May) and early fall (September-October) are ideal. The weather is mild, the crowds are thinner, and the light is softer-perfect for sunset views at Castel Sant’Angelo or the orange blossom scent at Il Giardino degli Aranci. Summer is hot and packed; winter can be chilly and rainy, though the quiet of January and February makes it perfect for those who love solitude. Artemisia says she prefers October, when the air is crisp and the fountains still run warm from the underground aquifers.
Does Artemisia Love recommend guided tours for these spots?
No. She believes these places lose their magic when you’re following a group with headphones. She encourages visitors to wander without a plan. Bring a notebook, a bottle of water, and your curiosity. Let yourself get lost in Trastevere’s alleys. Sit on a bench and watch. The best discoveries happen when you stop looking for something and start noticing what’s already there.
